Our journey from Littleborough to Hebden through Barry’s eyes – part two

There’s a few more photos on this post – Barry must’ve seen so much worth keeping for posterity!


Our neighbours leave to go down the long flight to Manchester


While we set off to Todmorden, via Walsden, and up the final lock – number 37 West Summit Lock which is reported to be the highest lock on the system


More rolling hills and greenery


A vision of serenity – what a fabulous place to live


Longlees Lock, the first for the descent to Hebden Bridge


An old toll house


Taking a turn at locking to get some much needed exercise!


A magnificent house by the lock near Walsden


The first time we’ve encountered a lock of this kind with a ratchet mechanism for opening the paddles and the gates. The gates wouldn’t open any other way due to the bridge which takes the road to the huge house


Opening the gate – watch out between your legs! Lightbank Lock (oh goodness, and those rolls of flab! definitely need to do much more locking!)


You can do it! Keep turning …


As my youngest grandson would say – WOW!


Winterbutlee Lock – what a delightful name and place


An unusual sight – let’s hope it leads to a deep swimming pool!


Would this win the prize for the best fish and chip shop setting?


You can hire out the bus for parties and eat to your heart’s content


Something else we haven’t encountered previously – a friendly goat living next to the lock! watch your hat Sandra, apparently he/she is rather fond of them …


Our temporary travelling companion Phil, shows me his Nicholson’s Guide with a photo of the bridge in the background. It’s an old guide and he’s been looking for the location of the front page shot for many years – so happy he found it 😉


Approaching Todmoren in unison like a well oiled machine


Stunning – words are inadequate to describe this scene (shame about Barry’s parcel on the roof!)


Our perfect pal Phil and his mate Megan


In the lock, jump off, then Phil holds the boat so I can drive in alongside – it’s a fine tuned procedure that we mostly got right!


The Great Wall of Tod – it holds the railway line in place!


Entering this idyllic town


A narrow passage to the Guillotine Lock (Todmorden or Library Lock)


Lots of firsts on this journey!


And so we finish this post in the tantalising town of Todmorden – the county boundary of Lancashire and Yorkshire.

If you’ve never visited this area, we’d recommend you make some time to do so as it’s so different to the usual rat race towns. It embodies a community spirit of co-operativeness and slowness, with ‘Incredible Edible‘ gardens everywhere that anyone can pick from – even from the front of the Police Station.

If only all places could use these open spirited examples and live so happily.

An unavoidably late start and finish – to avoid ‘Dead Man’s Stretch’!

We realised after last Thursday’s fiasco of a day that starting out early on this canal was probably a very good idea. The catch was we weren’t able to as we had to wait for a Home Brew Boat supplies delivery.

Finally starting out after lunch last Friday (27th June), within minutes we’d managed to breach the boat before even reaching the first of 15 locks. Actually, ‘we’ is Barry – he must’ve believed the ledge at the side of the canal for most of the previous day’s journey had been left behind. Sadly he was mistaken.

If I thought the boat had lurched and leaned previously, this experience was to show me how far it could tip! My lunch almost reappeared to feed whatever fish were living in the murky shallows below. Feeling a 60 foot hunk of steel, containing most of your worldly goods, leaning precariously, isn’t something I’d recommend as an experience.

This time we were both on board, no-one to walk ahead and let water through the nearby lock to see if that could help to extricate us. Barry, as usual, took it all in his stride.

Poling us out, bit by bit

Poling us out, bit by bit – with the rubbish from the prop and lock-side evident on the roof

It took about twenty minutes of heaving and to-ing and fro-ing, with passers by watching without interest, to move us off the ledge. I was fascinated with the reactions of people, it was as if they saw such sights frequently, no longer surprised, shocked or showing any sign of offering any assistance! Amazing.

I took a turn at locking. I guess I’d done my dash of the obstacle course and wanted to flex my muscles and get some exercise. I missed the camaraderie and extra support from Patrick and Shelley, but there wasn’t anyone else around to share with, so we had no choice but to go it alone.

The canal did appear to be deeper for this section of the route thank goodness. In fact Barry only headed down the weed hatch once, late in the evening.


Higher Boarshaw Bridge – leaving Chadderton and Oldham behind


Stone steps surviving the foot traffic

Reaching Slattock Top Lock cottage, our tenth of the day, I noticed a laminated sign and was aghast to read the owners of the cottage were freely offering their water to boaters. Very graciously and thankfully received – as we’d believed there wouldn’t be anywhere to fill our tank until we reached the summit, many miles away.


Slattock top lock cottage

Having begun late, we were hopeful of finding a mooring in the early evening, but didn’t manage to until we finally reached Littleborough. Barry did consider a possible mooring spot, but when he asked a couple of passers by whether it was ‘safe’ to moor there, they said “Probably not. It’s known as Dead Man’s Stretch here.“!

So we continued until another very late finish around 10pm. Hurrah for the long, light days of the british summer. We sneaked into the last available 24 hour mooring, with the intention of remain until Sunday to get a much needed day of rest before tackling the next 40 or so locks on Monday (30th June).


Must be a northern saying!


We weren’t quite bawling, but admittedly it was close at times!


Almost there now as the light begins to fade!


Something metal caught here – a shopping trolley or pushchair no doubt


So there you have it – the description of tireless campaigning that opened the full route and the fact that it’s a site of Biological importance. Sadly it hasn’t stopped some thoughtless people from discarding of an array of rubbish and household items into the waterway


Our mooring at Littleborough Friday and Saturday night

We’d been informed by numerous people that the surroundings become infinitely more pleasant from now on.

Continuing on The Rochdale Canal – Barry gets a bit bruised

On Thursday we set off on what was to turn into a bit of a nightmare trip. Two boats had already left when Patrick knocked on our door around 9am, and we said we’d really appreciate sharing the days’ travails with him and Shelley (not that we knew their names at that point, but boy we got to know them during the coming day!).

We’d heard the Rochdale is renowned for water shortage issues, been warned we may encounter some rather menacing characters, and told there could be some rubbish around.

We discovered to our dismay that the stories were actually generous – apart from the people. Everyone we met along the way was friendly and happy to chat, and seemed quite embarrassed and ashamed of the problems we were facing.

The Rochdale Canal

The Rochdale Canal runs for 33 miles between Mancheter and Sowerby Bridge, in west Yorkshire. In the 1950s, the canal stopped carrying any traffic – apart from the nine locks out of Manchester onto the Ashton Canal which is part of ‘The Cheshire Ring’. Restoration work in the 1970s meant the stretch from Littleborough to Sowerby Bridge opened in the 1980s.

However, it would be another 20 years before the whole length was navigable. The section from Littleborough to the junction of the Ashton Canal, only re-opened in 2002 after a huge volunteer restoration project. Twenty four locks were refurbished and 12 new road bridges built, as well as massive dredging of the route.

We have no wish to denigrate the waterway, or insult the people who worked so tirelessly to get it to the point that it’s at, but we do feel obliged to share our (not so pleasant) experiences along some of it’s route, in the hope that continuing efforts, by people like CRT, will be able to make improvements where possible and keep the path navigable.

We cannot deny the struggles we encountered travelling from New Islington to Littleborough, but we are extremely grateful to have the opportunity to travel on this canal.

We’d think it was mainly the fact that we sit more deeply than other boats, but others we’ve talked to along the route can relate similar experiences.

Locks 81 to 64 – a series of hurdles

The canal seemed extremely shallow, with an obviously lowered water level. You could tell from the line on the sides how far down it was.

You can see the mud at the sides of the canal

You can see the mud at the sides of the canal in the distance

As I mentioned, AreandAre sits a little lower in the water than other narrowboats. Our draft is already about 30″, and the stock from The Home Brew Boat on board, and a bit of our own beer, cider and wine, may also make some difference.

At lock 75, Slaters Higher Lock, I drove in the entrance and got firmly stuck on something – it turned out to be the cill. As the pound above was already low, our only option was to call CRT to come and rescue us. Shelley walked along her gunnel to throw a rope to the CRT help, and I moved from our boat to theirs as it was moving – at which point AreandAre extricated herself and moved in. Hah! So my weight leaving had tipped the balance. Oh goodness. That’s not a good look!

Sadly neither of us took a photo of the incident.

Following this, there was so little water in the pound above, we were told to sit inside the lock for over an hour while CRT went ahead and ‘found’ extra water for us to enable us to continue. Which we did. For a long while.

Side by side sitting patiently waiting for news of progress

Side by side sitting patiently waiting for news of progress

This chap was a sorry sight by the lock

This chap was a sorry sight by the lock

Barry and one of the CRT rescuers of the day

Barry and one of the three CRT rescuers of the day

The balance of us or our companions (NB Spined Loach) getting stuck on the bottom of the canal, was swayed very much in our ‘favour’! We felt rather embarrassed by this, and suspected they’d have made the journey far quicker without us. They very generously stated later in the day they’d enjoyed their toil far more with us, and we’d kept the whole thing lighthearted rather than laborious. Bless them.

One of our companions breaches

One of the few of our companions’ breaches – Barry looks on helplessly as Shelly finds solutions to re-float the boat

Barry lost count of the number of times he found himself down the weed hatch scraping, pulling and cutting all manner of debris from our prop. Once again this was disproportionate to Patrick’s visits, because our derriere was closer to the canal’s bottom. He found various items of clothing, a curtain, shreds of plastic bags, fishing lines, and goodness knows what. Patrick at one point pulled off a duvet complete with cover!

Duvet and cover rescued from Patrick's prop - seeing is believing

Duvet and cover rescued from Patrick’s prop – seeing is believing

Down into the depths he goes - what will he find?

Down into the depths he goes – what will he find?

And again, and again ... Around 8 times during the day

And again, and again … Around 8 times during the day

The challenge with removing so much stuff from our prop, is that it’s quite awkward to get to – or so Barry tells me! I’ve never been down there, nor do I intend to. He has to lean over the ridge on the rear step to access the hole, then there’s a bar around the hatch. So despite putting a cushion over the step to soften the area, he still ended up with bruises around his upper abdomen by the end of the day.

Having removed said articles, we bagged them up. We don’t see the point of leaving such rubbish anywhere near the cut – all that happens is someone throws it back in again for a future unfortunate soul to get clogged round their prop. Finding piles of similar extrications at the lock side, I got a couple of black bags and gingerly picked it up – with a rubber glove on mind you. It all sat on the roof of our boat until we found the sanitary station a couple of locks above Littleborough.

Piles of discarded crap from other boaters, left thoughtlessly at the lock-side

Piles of discarded crap from other boaters props, left thoughtlessly at the lock-side

If every boater did the same, maybe there’d be less to contend with?

It was unnerving every few yards to feel something solid in the dark murkiness below, as the boat lurched up and down. Just imagining what the hurdle could be each time was quite fascinating – a bike maybe? A shopping trolley? Possibly a fridge freezer – someone had tweeted to watch out for them a few days before we began this epic journey. They kidded me not!

Actually, if truth be known, I felt my stomach churn at every bump and bang. I have this possibly irrational fear of the boat tipping over when it leans so much. Barry reassures me this is highly unlikely. I do my best to believe him.

Barry’s shots of the day

The scenery surrounding our journey on Thursday wasn’t the most salubrious, but Barry’s still managed to find a few choice shots …


Shelley locking, while Patrick and I do our best to keep the boats ship shape in the depths below – they both got rather bruised and battered too


Another low pound, trying to stay afloat and avoid the sides and relentless rubbish lurking beneath the surface


Remnants of the cotton mills of times gone by


Still smiling – that’s a deep one to fill! You can make out some of the rubbish behind Shelley

It’s all a matter of perspective

Finally mooring up at ‘The Rose of Lancaster‘, at the end of a very long day, Patrick asked me on a scale of 1 to 10, how much had I enjoyed the day? I said ’20’! He was rather taken aback at this. I explained that although there’d been many times of despair and despondency, it all made for a lot of interesting memories and tales to tell.

There’s a great YouTube movie called ‘When you change the way you look at things, the things you look at change‘, featuring Wayne Dyer. And that’s basically what it’s all about – perspective. If you can learn to see things differently, it’s possible to control your happiness to a far greater extent than allowing the vagaries of life to get you down.

We’d gone through, albeit slowly and surely, 18 locks. The distance travelled was a mere 6 miles. It took us almost 12 hours! Crikey! This canal may go down in my book as even worse than our experience of Blackburn in August 2009 – and that’s saying something!